Waterproofing isn't a single product you paint on and forget. The right choice depends on the surface, how much water pressure it faces, and whether it'll be exposed to sunlight. Here are the four systems you're most likely to hear about.
Torch-on membranes
These are rolls of bituminous sheet heated with a torch so they bond into a continuous, seamless skin. They're the workhorse for flat and concrete roofs because they handle ponding water well. The catch is preparation and overlap detailing — a membrane is only as good as its weakest seam.
Liquid-applied coatings
Acrylic and polyurethane coatings are brushed, rolled or sprayed on to form a flexible film. They shine on complex shapes — around pipes, upstands and irregular surfaces — where sheet membranes are fiddly. Exposed-grade versions also resist UV, making them popular as a roof top-coat.
Cementitious systems
These cement-based slurries bond tightly to concrete and masonry and are common in bathrooms, water tanks and wet areas before tiling. They're rigid, so they suit surfaces that won't flex much, and they're safe against potable water.
PU injection
For a crack that keeps weeping, polyurethane resin is injected under pressure directly into the gap. On contact with moisture it expands and cures, sealing the crack from the inside. It's the go-to fix for live cracks in concrete walls, slabs and basements where a surface coating alone won't hold.
The part that actually matters
Whichever system is specified, most failures come down to surface preparation, not the product. A membrane over a dirty or damp substrate will lift; a coating that's too thin will craze. That's why we take moisture readings, prepare thoroughly and use manufacturer-warranted materials.
If you're weighing up a quote or unsure which system fits your problem, see our waterproofing services or ask us directly.